Bievenidos a Peru-Adventure Number Three

Ok, so it’s not only my third adventure, but here lies part three of my living abroad blog. This time it’s the story of the next nine months as I live and work in Peru.

Last March I finished my master’s degree in public health at UCLA and I am currently applying for PhD programs in Epidemiology. I was fortunate to receive a funded Fulbright/Fogarty fellowship to do public health research in Peru during my year between program. My project is still in the works, but it looks like I will be working on traveler’s diarrhea in Cusco. More details of the project will come as I figure it out.

Thus far, I have safely arrived in Lima. I will be staying here for a while to nail down the details of the project before I move to Cusco. My Spanish is coming back faster than I thought, but I still have a long way to go. One of my goals of the next nine months is to feel more confident with my Spanish conversation skills. There are several Fogarty Fellows who are also in Peru. They have been a great community to walk into providing a beautiful place to stay (a view from the balcony is posted below), advice on how to take the bus, and education on the Peruvian receipt culture. (In case you are wondering about the last one, you get a receipt for everything, there are two types of receipts, and you better take one of them with you.) I am grateful for the support that I have here, but I am still quite nervous with anticipation about what is yet to come.

This blog has evolved as I have over the years. I started it more than six years ago when I studied abroad in the Dominican Republic. It also documents my time after college in Tanzania. My objectives, however, remain the same. I hope to share my experiences of living, working and playing over the next nine months with those that can’t be here to share them with me!

The journey begins

Or maybe more like the journey comes to an end. I have started the epic trek back to the northwest. I left Dodoma on a 6 am bus. I am now in Dar staying with Eve's (college roommate) parents. Saturday I will catch a 5:30 am flight to Nairobi and to Amsterdam. I am staying the night in Amsterdam in a christian hostel I found in the city. Then for the last leg I fly out at 10 am and will arrive in Portland at noon. Long way to travel in two hrs...
I think I am ready to head home. Well at this point I'm ready to just be home. I like life in Dodoma. I had an incredible experience and bring home with me many memories, blessings and friendships, but the time has come for the next step. I think I am a lot more ready for life after college than I was walking across the stage four months ago. I can't explain why. I'm actually excited to be in the working world for a little while. I like Portland. I have a community there. I know the city. I hope this next year or so will be a time to explore these things even more.
Thank you for your prayers and support during this trip. I would love to share more about my time if anyone is interested.
Please continue to pray for safety as I travel home this weekend, as well as a smooth transition back to life in the states with people there, including securing a job and the next step in education.

2 weeks...

Wow I leave Dodoma in a little less than two weeks. Some days drag by but the weeks are flying. I don’t know what I think about coming home. I love life here. I love people here. But to stay I need work. I need to learn Swahili and then I need work. I’m a little bored at the church during the week. I don’t like filling time. And in that sense I am pretty excited to go home. I feel like I have somewhat of a life to get back to. Only a part time job coaching basketball (I need to find a real one if anyone has any connections!), but a city with more life and community of people where I am really comfortable. It is going to be different not being in school. Three of my closest friends have moved out of state, and those that are in town will take more work to see. But I don’t feel finished with life in Portland. Being away made me realize that, I think. More than the city though, there are certain people keeping me there. But then I don’t want this life to be over either. I fear that as soon as I get on that airplane, all of this will only be in my memory and then will slowly slip away like it didn’t even happen. I’m not sure how to capture that emotion in words. It’s another thing that is too hard to really think about. One minute I want to get on an airplane to get out of here now but the next I can’t imagine going back and trying to function in the craziness of the western world.

Anyway, for now I am trying to focus on just being here and getting the most out of the next two weeks in Dodoma.

A couple of weekends ago there was a national holiday, Nane Nane, (8-8) on the eighth of august. My understanding is that just because of the date there is a holiday. They also had saba saba, seven-seven. I think nane nane was suppose to be a agricultural celebration of some sort. I went to a big festival outside of town, close to the first house I lived in. It was nuts. There were tons of people! It was pretty much like a county fair at home but without the rides and really spread out, and well it was still in Africa. There was food and music and ceremonial stuff, people selling clothes, dishes, movies, soap. There were government booths, agricultural booths, non-profit booths, and games. They had animals. Supposedly there was a section with lions and lepers and tortoises but I failed to find it, that’s how big it was. I walked around people watching, bought some Tanzanian coffee and honey, too pictures of a guy cooking cow intestine and walked some more. I saw one other group of white people, and at some point my friends were there but I couldn’t find them. It was a huge Tanzanian event. I guess the president even came to open it that day. I didn’t take nearly enough pictures to describe it. There aren’t a lot of those festival type things here, or at least that I have seen. Summers in Portland you can find something like this, but smaller, every weekend. In that way it was a cool thing for Dodoma, but too crazy and too many people for me.

A Little Travel

Last week I went on a little get away to Zanzibar, a island off the coast of
Tanzania and Dar. We stayed in the main city, Stonetown, on Zanzibar. It’s was really different. It has interesting architecture with a middle eastern/Indian influence. The city is made up of twisty turning alleyways that you are bound to get lost in. The whole island is pretty unique because of its history, but really touristy. It was super weird to see so many white people and to be with so many tourists... to be a tourist.
Some little highlights.
An interesting spice tour of a small spice plantation, including a spiced lunch
An odd beach trip with a tour group of young brits
I was offered 4 scarves if i slept with a vendor (extremely insulting price actually!!)
Good seafood! I had tuna, prawns, king fish, shark fish, lobster…
Lots of bargaining and gift buying and befriending the vendors in the process
An awful ferry ride back to the mainland: tons of people, smaller boat, no
place to get fresh. I got pretty sick for only the third time in my life.

I enjoyed the island though and wish we had more time to go elsewhere outside of Stonetown. Being a tourist after living in the county is odd. I enjoy traveling and experiencing new places and learning, but it's weird. I spent more money
this weekend than the average person makes at the church in 3 months. I'm torn
with the desire of simple luxuries. I waste to much water in an upright shower,
but the hot water shower feels amazing. I really love the thought put into ambiance and lighting for the comforts of a room, but now see it as a mark of money, an unnecessary aspect. Things like art and music that are classified as culture come from the upper class, people who have time and money for these luxuries. I too appreciate these things and while it is real life for many Tanzanians, they are a very small portion of the population. It's still too difficult to struggle with. The two worlds can't simultaneously exist in my brain for long. I have to exist in whichever one is present and enjoy what it brings.

Say good byes-plus some other tib-bits

So many people are leaving! One long term and two short term volunteers from the church have left this month. A long with two other friends who were volunteers through other programs have gone home this month. It’s great to meet so many interesting people, but sad to then have to say good bye. Leah, the other girl here with lahash is also going home, this week.
It is beautiful the emphasis and importance this culture puts on good byes. Perhaps a little annoying how formal and long they are, still have to put that one in there : ). But I really appreciate the time that everyone takes out to show their appreciation and love for a visitor/friend/coworker. When the short term volunteers left, we had a big lunch. There were speeches about how wonderful they were and how much of a blessing their time at the church had been. Emotional for people who had been there for a two weeks. I thought it was great. Another great tradition is the gift of kitanges. I’m sure that’s not spelled right but the huge pieces of fabric that people make into dresses or just wear. Beautiful peaces of fabric. Often times they have saying on them that are important when they are given as gifts. The person being honoured is wrapped in the kitange and then many pictures are taken. Beautiful way to say good bye.
The last week leah’s dinner schedule has been booked! I have been also able to tag a long. Once people realized she was leaving so soon, everyone wanted to have us over for dinner. It was important to people that they had a chance to share a meal with us to show appreciation and properly say good bye. Many of the church workers don’t speak English very well but they still wanted us to be in there homes. It was great to be able to see another side of their lives. I spend so much time with them at church. I have seen their heart to serve the people around them. It’s easy to forget the many of these people working at the church don’t have great living situations either. Some fathers are absent in families, people are sleeping on couches or a family is sharing on room. It has been really fun have a chance to experience that.
Another side note that has come along with Leah leaving—She and I made dinner for our host family, we are living together right now. We made chilli and cheese bread and fruit salad. We feed 16 people! It was epic to cook this meal in Africa! First we had to get everything that we needed in town. Walking all over, first to the market, then to the wazungu shop (white people store), then the spice shop, finally trying to find everything else on the street. After trekking it all home it took us a couple of hours to cut everything up in our hands, open cans with knives, cook everything on a coal stove outside. It’s pretty different from cooking at home. Throws a little twist in it all. The chilli turned out really good! I think the family enjoyed our effort too to feeding them all. It was difficult to explain to the kids that although this was typical ‘american’ food, it wasn’t what we ate everyday. It’s difficult to explain the variety that most people have in the states. I really enjoyed being able to share that part of my life at home with them though.

Formalities

People are people and relationships are relationships, but there is something about people’s interactions here that is unlike what I feel at home. People seem more guarded here somehow. It could still be the language barrier that prevents people from letting me in, but still interactions are different. Maybe this is too harsh, but there seems to be a lack of emphasis on the truth and honesty. Perhaps it is just displayed in a different way. Let’s see if I can try to explain this.
For starters at home I get annoyed with the programmed, how are you? I am good responses. If things are rough… a lot of people still say they are good. If times aren’t good, the person asking often doesn’t really want to hear about it. They just want to hear about the good things. I don’t feel this way in all communities at home. I really value the ones where I can say, ‘Things are a little rough.’ And the other person can take it as it is and the conversation doesn’t come to a halt. Any how…all greetings are programmed like that here. I haven’t learned how to say things are ok, or not good. Sometimes if I say I’m tired people don’t know how to respond. You go through the routine, hi how are you? Fine, how is home? Good, how is work? Fine. Greetings are HUGE here. But always routine. Visiting a member of the church in the hospital I saw his wife go through the same thing. I’m good, my husband is fine, he is improving, thank your for you kindness we are fine. Not true!! It was a serious situation and he wasn’t improving initially, she hadn’t slept in three days. Really should have been sleeping rather than entertaining visitors. It doesn’t seem to be acceptable to admit these weaknesses. This is just one example too.
I love the community at the church. They have so much passion and energy. I love them! But the community doesn’t seem very personal. Little things get up out in the open but big struggles are not exposed or even mentioned. Perhaps they are not here, perhaps it’s to difficult to mention them, perhaps I don’t understand. I would expect a community like this to challenge each other more, at work, spiritually, in home lives. They are very close. That is something that I love, but everything always seems so formal and fine. At home close knit communities like this one are much more transparent about what is going on in their lives. Not everywhere for sure. And a different work environment wouldn’t call for that, but in a church that is as close as this one, I’m surprised at that aspect of people’s interaction.
There seems to be no room for constructive criticism either. Even in the work environment. That is something that I really value. I want an honest assessment of my performance and how to improve it. There are some church leaders that tell us white folks to speak up when we have something so say. They tell us that they want our input, but when input is given, people often get defensive and the information isn’t received. On the other side, I want to be helpful and useful. There must be ways that I can do better or help out more, but whenever I ask they respond with unprecedented praise.
Something that I can’t quite get my head around. Not that there has to be a reason why. It’s interesting the subtle differences you learn working and living with people for an extended period of time.

More photos

I added some more photos to the first album I made. The same link should work but here it is again.
Enjoy! and I'll have another post soon.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2036011&id=31601659&l=50fa4e693f